Bike through the Alentejo Region and see “The Province of Portugal”

Monday, 14 June 2010 00:00

If you want to enjoy the slower pace of life in Alentejo region of Portugal, the best way is by bicycle. Pedal across the beautiful plains from the Atlantic to the mountains along the border of Spain. In this rural and agricultural region, you might find yourself sharing the road with a farmer and his ox cart or with women walking in their traditional black dresses back to their white-washed farm houses.

Navigating the rolling hills of the Alentejo is easy with the help of a bicycle tour. Tour operators offer a variety of packages for all levels. A few are listed below. Experienced cyclers can break away from the tour group, as well, by putting together their own routes easily charted on detailed maps. Throughout the Alentejo, you can set your own level of adventure, choosing from challenging hills, vast plains, urban and beach routes — or pack all of them into an extended tour.

About the Alentejo Region

Occupying nearly a third of Portugal’s mainland, the picturesque Alentejo region is an hour drive from Lisbon. Its northern boundary is the Tejo River. To the south are rolling plains that extend into the mountains of the east and Portugal’s southernmost region, the Algarve. The Atlantic Ocean is the region’s western border.

The Portuguese often refer to the Alentejo as a nation unto itself. The quaint homes and farmhouses are white-washed and have a dash of Moorish flavor. The people are very proud of their culture and rich heritage. They speak their own dialect and sing songs unique to the region. Roman conquerors left their mark here, as well. As you travel the country roads, keep an eye out for ruins and in the city of Evora, you will find the remnants of a Roman temple, aqueduct and a villa at São Cucufate that is considered the nation’s mostly most complete Roman building.

While crossing the Alentejo, you might pedal past a grove of olive trees or a field of sunflowers. Seek shade in one of the many cork forests, leaning your bike up against the intriguing, renewable bark of its trees, a major industry for the country. Snack on smoked pata negra and goat cheese made at one of the local farms. Ride along the coast road and take in the fresh sea air or test your muscles by venturing into the mountains at the Spanish border.

Castles, Palatial Palaces and Ancient Ruins

If you are looking to do a little site seeing along the way, create a bicycle route past the region’s four castles -- Nisa, Castelo de Vide, Marvão, Portalegre and Alter do Chão.

Along the way, you’ll see burial grounds from the Neolithic period and dolmens, or ancient stone tables. Bicyclist can see the rock carvings and paintings in the caves of Escoural or head near the River Almansor, where you’ll find the remnants of old water mills. Ride past the castle of Alandroal and to Vila Viçosa for a visit to the Ducal Palace, the family home of Portugal’s most influential royal families.

A Little Wine Along the Way

The Alentejo has spent the last two decades investing in its wine industry, earning the region international acclaim. Bicyclers can find full-bodied red wines at estates near the towns of Reguengos de Monsaraz, Redondo, Borba and Vidigueira. Estates that give tours include the La Quinta do Carmo estate, the Eugénio de Almeida Foundation in Évora, the Herdade dos Coelheiros in Igrejinha, the Arraiolos, Roquevale, Monte Branco, Redondo and the Herdade do Esporão, all in Reguengos de Monsaraz.

Intriguing Towns and Cities

The gem of the Alentejo region is Evora, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage site. A popular retreat for the wealthy for centuries, bicyclists can slow their pace in this relaxed, yet cosmopolitan city. Take a ride along the cobblestone streets or visit the Roman temple, the Gothic cathedral and the Jardim de Diana for a unique view of the acropolis. Don’t forget to take time for the top-quality cuisine at one of the city’s many restaurants. If you map your bike route correctly, Evora makes an excellent over-night stop.

Another popular city is Estremoz, a classic market town. Pedal to the medieval castle of Castelo De Vide or ride through the city’s ancient Jewish quarter. The beautiful hill top village of Arraiolos, famous for its hand-woven tapestries, is another interesting stop. Bicyclists also make a point to visit the fortified village of Monsaraz and the River Guadiana valley.

What about the Beach ?

The Nature Park of the South-West Alentejo stands guard over the region’s wildly beautiful beaches. Take a walk in a small cove nestled between rocks or spend an afternoon on a vast, sandy beach. Cyclists should traverse the beach roads carefully, but don’t let this dissuade you from stopping in at the little fishing villages. Work your way toward the sea cliffs or take a rest under the umbrella-like pine trees that shelter certain areas of the Alentejo’s beaches.

When your pedals stop turning

At the end of the day, you can rest your muscles at one of the region’s well-known Pousadas, lodgings with historic significance, such as a convent or a monastery. The Pousada Flor da Rosa is a medieval monastery in the Alentejo town of Crato, and in Évora, try the Loios Convent.

After an evening rest, head out and see the town after dark. Enjoy the nighttime with a traditional meal of the region, where bread, wine and olive oil reign. Try traditional Portuguese barbecue or find a club featuring the Portugal’s iconic Fado folklore music.