2007 02 - Bacalhau: Cod served in more than 365 ways

Thursday, 01 February 2007 00:00

If you know Portugal in any way, you know that salt cod is the staple of Portuguese cuisine. It's served from north to south, and in more than 365 ways--one for each day of the year. But what is it that makes this salted fish so Portuguese? After all, fish don't have passports. What makes the salt cod so very Portuguese is the frenetic embrace of it by Portuguese chefs some five centuries ago.  Here was a fish that could be caught, salted to keep fresh for long periods, and still it tasted delicious. In its salted form, it is called bacalhau. In fact, the Portuguese have no word for "fresh" cod—the salted version is so popular. A creative marketer tried to introduce frozen, fresh cod—calling it Bacalhau Pascal—some years back, but it didn't catch on. Roasted in ashes of an olive oil press, grilled with olive oil and garlic, made into tasty cakes, stewed, boiled, fried, baked… the cod today remains the fiel amigo--faithful friend--of the Portuguese. And there is no greater pleasure than traveling the country from region to region and sampling the diversity of bacalhau. Like Portugal itself, it is a tasty, unexpected treat.

Oh, two more new notes, as the dollars sinks to new lows against the Euro, Portugal's value becomes more important. From luxury five star resorts, to country inns, to eating out and car rentals, the dollar goes a lot farther in Portugal.

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*** INSIDE THIS MONTH'S EDITION ***

1. THIS MONTH'S TRAVEL SECRET: Castles Not for Kings, but for War
2. NEWS: A geo-restaurant opens in Beira/Centro Region; Government invests in new tourism projects; NH Parque Hotel opens in Lisbon; Noudar Nature Park opens in Alentejo Region; Chocolatier of the Year crowned
3. PACKAGES/DEALS: Romance in Cascais; Learn about wines at Lisbon Nectar Winebar; Three new budget airlines to serve Lisbon; New travel planner at Lisbon website
4. EVENTS: Cruz Filipe works on display at Centro de Arte Moderna José de Azeredo; Carnival and Holy Week celebrations; Holy Week in Braga; Road Racing World Championship in Estoril; Algarve Portuguese Open
5. EATS: The Cheese Takes It
6. VERSE: Júlio Dinis

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1. THIS MONTH'S TRAVEL SECRET: Castles Not for Kings, but for War

Portugal has more than 150 castles, forts, and sea forts. From the Azores to the Algarve, Portugal's many military relics date from prehistoric times up to the 19th century. To the visitor, they offer an inviting piece of history and adventure. The castles that dot Portugal were not usually built as palaces for the nobility or the king, but to defend the young, Portuguese nation. Here is where troops were sent during times of war and conflict. As weapons evolved, castle design did, too.  The high walls and towers gave way to low walls that better held guns and troops. Today, several Pousadas have grown from the remains of these castles, offering lodging visitors a unique perspective on history. We have just created a series of castle tours for Portugal's visitors. Check out our website at www.insideportugaltravel.com.

To help you get the idea, here are our favorite five castles in Portugal:

Sabugal (Centro de Portugal):  It features the only five-sided tower in the world. A poem captures this: "A castle with five sides, does not exist in Portugal, if not on the banks of the Coa in the village of Sabugal."

Guimaraes (Norte): In Portugal's founding city, this massive granite castle is where the nation's first king was born. First, he revolted against his mother, then he started the nation in the 11th century.

Marvao (Alentejo):  Marvao has sections from almost every century. As a whole, it is massive, impenetrable, and impressive. It is just eight miles from the border with Spain.

Sintra (Lisbon): Built by the Moors and abandoned when they fled in 1139, this castle is like a dream floating on the mountainside. Its grounds now contain a wonderful park with amazing views.

Feira (Porto): Though this castle looks like a wedding cake or something out of a fairy tale, it is full of murderous history.  Still, it has the only preserved medieval great hall in the country.

2. NEWS: A geo-restaurant opens in Beira/Centro Region; Government invests in new tourism projects; NH Parque Hotel opens in Lisbon; Noudar Nature Park opens in Alentejo Region; Chocolatier of the Year crowned

+++ Europe's first geo-restaurant is open for business in the historic village of Idanha-a-nova, in the interior of the Beira/Centro region. Petiscos & Granitos sits at the town center, offering a dining concept inspired by the nearby Geopark Naturtejo Park. It serves only local foods, prepared according to area traditions. It also serves foods from national producers who have used earth friendly methods. The restaurant itself was built with local materials, including giant blocks of local granite.

+++ The Portuguese government will invest 100 million euro in Serra de Estrela in the Beiras/Centro Region over the next two years to build new tourist infrastructure, hotels, and preserve the natural beauty of mainland Portugal's highest mountain range.

+++ The new NH Parque Hotel just opened in Lisbon in the Marques do Pombal square, a financial and historical center of the city. The NH Parque Hotel offers 148 rooms and views of the city.

+++ The new Noudar Nature Park in the Alentejo region offers visitors access to and lodging in a wild, untouched area along the banks of the Guadiana. Agriculture, tourism and conservation co-exist here. Two new houses for guests area available: Herdade da Coitadinha and Casa da Malta.

+++ The Praia D'El Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort in Obidos won this year's European Golf Resort of the Year Award.  Located just 50 minutes north of Lisbon, Praia D'El golf course was designed by the renowned American architect, Cabell B. Robinson.

+++ When the American actor John Malkovich visited Lisbon to make a movie, he never thought that he'd end up owning a restaurant. Now, his Bica do Sapato occupies an old boat factory, exuding cool and serving up Portuguese favorites with a modern spin.  Next  door is John's disco, named Lux, for those who are to end the evening with dance.

3. PACKAGES/DEALS: Romance in Cascais; Learn about wines at Lisbon Nectar Winebar; Three new budget airlines to serve Lisbon; New travel planner at Lisbon website

++ Portugal is a romantic place. For 820 Euros at the famed Hotel Albatroz in Cascais, visitors can choose two romantic nights in an ocean-view, luxurious suite decorated with red rose petals. Dinner is included, and a private driver takes visitors to see the romantic spots in nearby Sintra and Cascais.  http://www.arteh-hotels.com

+++ Portugal's great wines can be mystery to some, but Lisbon's Nectar Winebar now offers a crash course for visitors who want to get to know the country's drink. Not only will students learn about wine, they'll learn the basics of Portuguese cuisine and how to make the most out of both during their visit.

+++ Going to Lisbon? Three new budget airlines will start serving the city in 2007: Finnair, bmi baby and Thomson join Aerlingus, Air – Berlin, Clickair, easyJet, Germanwings, LTU, Monarch, Vueling, bmibaby, and Virgin, in offering affordable service to and from Lisbon.

+++ Visitors can create their own tour with the Travel Planner feature at visitlisboa.com. Click on Travel Planner at the top of the English version of  the site.

+++ Lastly, if you love chocolate, and we know you do, then head to Lisbon's elegant Pestana Palace where Ana Rute Cristóvão has been crowned Chocolatier of the Year in Portugal.

4. EVENTS: Cruz Filipe works on display at Centro de Arte Moderna José de Azeredo; Carnival and Holy Week celebrations; Holy Week in Braga; Road Racing World Championship in Estoril; Algarve Portuguese Open

+++ The Centro de Arte Moderna José de Azeredo will offer an exhibit of the work of Cruz Filipe from February 15 to  April 8, 2007. Cruz Filipe began painting in 1955 and used multimedia on canvas.

+++ In the city of Braga, Holy Week before Easter (April 8) is a time of religious ceremonies, but also of parades and painted faces. The city's Romanesque cathedral is a focal point throughout the week.

+++ The Portuguese Moto GP in Estoril is part of the Road Racing World Championships in events beginning April 17.

+++ The annual Music Festival at the Belem Cultural Center in Lisbon will be April 21 through 23, with more than 130 concerts on seven stages.  The festival attracts baroque orchestras, choirs, vocalists and soloists all perform during the three-day event

+++ The Le Meridien Penina Golf & Resort in Portugal hosts the Algarve Portuguese Open April 30 to May 3 as part of the PGA European Tour.

5. EATS: The Cheese Takes It

Europe is considered the hot spot for artisan cheeses, but Portugal has always stood out from the crowd. You'll see Portugal's cheeses in America's specialty cheese stores, but better yet--visit Portugal and discover them for yourselves.

Here are a few cheese favorites:

Serra da Estrela is the king of cheeses, made for centuries by shepherds in the high mountains of  the Beiras/Centro region. Entirely handmade, the Serra da Estrela is so soft it is almost spreadable. It is rich and sweet, with a slight burnt toffee character.

Rabaçal-Brought is a high-fat, sheep's milk cheese brought to Portugal by monks, delicious with local wine or marmalade. It is a high fat content cheese and is made from sheep's milk.

Sabugal is not only a castle, but a cheese as well. It is creamy, tasty and fragrant but not strong. It's delicious!

Sao Jorge, from the Azores island of the same name, comes from a land where there are more cows than people, and the cheese will make anyone who taste it swear off cheddar forever.

Take a tour of Portugal's cheese country and discover these, and more, for yourself! Here is one cheese route through the Alentejo Region, but there are many more:

6. VERSE-- Júlio Dinis

Júlio Dinis, pseudonym of Joaquim Guilherme Gomes Coelho, was a Portuguese doctor and writer who lived only to the age of 32.  After his death in 1871, some of his poems were published posthumously. He wrote:

"The sea on one side, the mountains on the other, and between these two majestic splendors, the city smiles like a child sleeping, safe and warm, between its parents."